Be*mused

Adventures at the Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar ~ where to start?  This Istanbul landmark dates from the 1400s and is reputed to be the oldest and largest of covered marketplaces in the world. It's no surprise that with over 3,000 stalls and shops lining more than 50 interconnected streets and alleyways, the Grand Bazaar is atop most must-see lists for first-time visitors to the city. Before our trip, several friends who have traveled there (as well as many travel guides) suggested a smaller bazaar near the Blue Mosque for actual shopping, but insisting that the the Grand Bazaar must be visited for the experience.

On one of our first evenings, we walked through the smaller, recommended Arasta Bazaar which was in the neighborhood of our hotel (more later) and determined that yes, we would definitely be returning to shop here. And then we penciled in a stop at the Grand Bazaar on the following day when we had other sights to see in that neighborhood.  An hour or two was thought sufficent to soak up the flavor of the place, evade the aggressive dealers and take some photos. 

The variety of goods for sale in the bazaar is broad ~ food, clothing, textiles, jewelry, tourist items ~ and the quality ranges from imported junk (China) to high end. We had been warned of the persistence of the sellers, that once you stepped into a shop, you probably weren't stepping out without something and that serious haggling over price is the expected, historic norm. We were on high guard.

But a funny thing happened ~ or didn't. Although many of the dealers were cajoling as we walked by, imploring us to just step in, consider their wares, the atmosphere was quite different from what we expected. If we were good-natured in our refusal, they were similarly good-natured in the rebuff. And when I got up the nerve to enter a rug shop (there must be a thousand in the Grand Bazaar, alone), I was pleasantly surprised to find fixed prices and a friendly staff who explained that many of the better quality shops prefer to do business that way now as tourists, especially, are put off by the bargaining. 

We relaxed and started to have some fun. We ventured into shops and stalls, admired and inquired. Haggled a bit, in some cases getting a better price, in some cases not. But in each case, the interactions were relaxed, friendly and quite interesting. Many come looking for jewelry or ceramics. For me, the bazaar was all about the textiles.

I went to Turkey hoping to bring home a suzani.  I saw many, many pieces, all qualities and sizes but didn't purchase one. The hanging above looks exactly what I was looking for ~ yet I have no memory of seeing it, let alone taking this photo!  Does that give you an idea of Heather's and my state of euphoria (stupor?) as we drifted through the unending warren of delights? (The guys, not so much ~but they were good sports.)

Outside of most rug shops, kilim pillowcovers (cut from flatweave rugs) were stacked high to encourage browsing, I'd guess. Most were geometric but when I asked at one about availability of florals, he ran and got this dealer, aka 'the George Clooney of Istanbul' who brought me to his shop around the corner, dropping piles for me to peruse while he regaled us with humorous stories of some of his exploits in the business. I did get a deal here and the entertainment alone was worth the price!

In sharp contrast to the opulence of the domed ceilings of the Grand Bazaar, the Arasta Bazaar in the Sultanahmet area of Istanbul looks a little sad early in the morning on a snowy day. But it's a little gem of a place with many lovely shops and almost no pressure. A quiet place to browse and consider. 

I cringe a bit while posting this photo ~ it was about 20° with a brisk wind, I was freezing! ~ but it's my best shot of the interior bazaar area, the nicer shops which are well worth a visit. Iznik!!

And this ~ this is, in my opinion, the crown jewel of the bazaar, a little shop chockablock full of (mostly) vintage textiles. Museum quality textiles. Hats and robes, saddlebags and wallhangings, bolts of ikats (vintage and reproduction) available by the yard. It's a tiny place, the four of us pretty much filled the available floor space as I slowly turned, trying to take in all of stacked and hanging items. I was practically hyperventilating but it was so high-end and nearing closing time, so I didn't want to ask to be shown pieces. We turned to exit and something caught my eye on a bottom shelf.

These are wooden spice boxes from Afghanistan. As the young clerk started pulling them out, each was more beautiful than the last. I was fawning all over them (so much for keeping a straight face...) And then he said something that really knocked the pins out from under me. "We have a lot more at our bigger gallery." I thought they were going to have to carry me out of there but when I heard that their home gallery was just around the corner from the bazaar entrance, not a one minute walk from this shop, we were off.  

The people working at the gallery were generous with their time, sharing staggeringly beautiful pieces from their collection drawers with fascinating stories to go along with them. It turns out that while most of their sale pieces for are originals, part of their business is in selling very high-end reproductions of antique Caucasian and Ottoman textiles, all hand embroidered and produced by their shop of artisans in Armenia. They pride themselves on providing sustainable income for skilled women through through this project.  Another most memorable interaction!

Are you wondering why my photos from Arasta are both morning and night shots?  Because after some of my usual back-and-forthing, I had to run back the next morning to buy a spice box. 

So our trip was drawing to a close and something was nagging at me. I had posted an Instagram photo of this rug shop from the Grand Bazaar earlier in the week and each time I looked at it, I was more incredulous that I hadn't gone in to take a closer look at these stunning, graphic kilims. Our plans for Friday were somewhat compromised by the unexpected frigid weather so we decided to spend part of the day back over at the Grand Bazaar. 

I'm not sure why I've always been so enthralled by patterns, but the rugs in this shop just about took my breath away.Of various vintages, mostly 40-50 years old (the ones we looked at), those exposed to more sun over the years were softly faded. Others retained the original color saturation of the vegetable dyes used.

Here's the thing about the rug shops. Almost all stock is folded and stacked so browsing necessitates a salesperson unfurling options after you ask to see a certain size or pattern. This is where the pressure comes in so many situations as the more rugs laid out, the stronger the pressure to purchase. We'd heard some real horror stories before our trip but this couldn't have been further from the case here at Recep Karaduman. After many were considered, they refolded what we clearly weren't interested in, leaving our favorites arrayed on the floor for consideration.  

Why are these guys smiling? I've heard Turkey doesn't allow its visitors to leave without a rug. That's true, isn't it?

Miles of tiles

One of the undeniable attractions of Istanbul is the opportunity to see the famous Iznik tiles, named for the town where this style of ceramics was made from the 15th to the 17th century. Although most of the vessels of that time now reside in museums outside of Turkey, the tiles can be seen in many mosques and historical buildings in the city. 

On our second day, we visited the Topkapi Palace, the Imperial residence of Ottoman sultans for almost 400 years. It's an enormous complex to which guidebooks suggest allotting several hours. We were there for the better part of a day, touring the kitchens, queuing up to see the knockout jewels (everything from adornments to thrones, literally encrusted with diamonds, rubies and emeralds) and enjoying the beautiful views of Istanbul from the garden areas overlooking the Bosphorous Strait.  

Our first peek at tiled rooms and entryways came in and around several small buildings in that garden area.  The doors above are inlaid mother-of-pearl.

We thought these were all pretty great until we came to the complex known as the Harem, where the Sultan, his family and 300+ women in his harem resided.  

The entry is gated and lined with rooms where the eunuchs lived and guarded the interior areas from outside forces. And as you continue in further and further, the rooms grow more and more opulent. 

Above is a reception room between the outer apartments and that of the Sultan's mother, who actually ruled the roost. You can see that part of the ornamentation over what I think was a fireplace has been left unrestored for reference. Many of these rooms were interior spaces without windows, so photographing true color was difficult. Several had skylights, which helped.  

This lavish entryway was my hands-down favorite tile motif. That blue!! Ms.FerretingOuttheFun is waiting to join me in the Sultan's apartment. 

As if the tiles weren't enough, how about those stained glass windows?

Visually intoxicating.  My neck was getting stiff from trying to take it all in.

Several days later, we made a beeline for the Rustem Pasha Mosque, a relatively small mosque just outside the Spice Market.  Reputed to have the best representation of Iznik tiles in the city, we had to hunt it down after being dazzled at the Harem.  It was a frigid day and wet snow turned to sleet as we negotiated back alleys to find our way but the quest was worth it.

Unlike the Hagia Sophia which was secularized as a museum a number of years ago, the others we visited during the week, this one included, are active mosques and thus impose numerous rules on visitors, including restricted viewing areas, a no shoe policy and headscarf requirements for all women.

Iznik tiles are clearly one of the most recognizable examples of Turkey's artistic heritage. And if you'd like to bring home a piece to remember your visit, there's no shortage of shops from which to choose a special piece.

I know what you'd like to ask ~ no, I didn't. Not that I didn't pause over tiles a number of times. (But don't worry, I didn't come home empty-handed!) I did purchase a book on the tiles of Rustem Pasha Mosque. Ironically, the definitive book on the subject, Iznik: The Artistry of Ottoman Ceramics, was written by Walter Denny, who taught my first art history class in college, back when we were both young pups. How funny to find his book and see him quoted all over Istanbul. If you're interested in seeing more dazzling examples of Iznik, I'd highly recommend hunting it down in your library. 

***As usual, any photo can be clicked for a closeup.

Carpe annum

So, I just got back from Istanbul a few days ago. I know!! As surprising as that may sound to you, it's probably more surprising to me!  The trip materialized shortly before the holidays.  We had planned to visit K&H in Latvia in late spring until something came up that necessitated changing our plans. When we suggested we'd just come earlier, during winter, the response was 'Nooo! It's cold, it's dark! Let's meet for a week somewhere warmer."  Several destinations were mentioned as possibilities, but when Istanbul came up, I was all over it!!  I had decided that my personal theme for 2015 would be "Seize the year" ~ what better way than to welcome it in a totally new culture?

As we flew in over the city, I couldn't help but notice the mosque-dotted neighborhoods, so different from anyplace I'd visited. We timed our arrival to meet the kids (aka Mr&Ms.Ferretting Out the Fun) at the Istanbul airport and were whisked together to our charming little boutique hotel in the Sultanahmet section of the city, literally steps from most of the well-known historical attractions. How's this for a room?    

My giddy self, reflected in a mirrored TV wall, shortly after dropping my suitcase

Truly, during every minute of the trip, I could hardly believe I was there.  And as I look through my 500+ photos, my strongest impulse is to book another flight and return. Today. I absolutely loved Istanbul!

The Blue Mosque, right in *our neighborhood*

We checked in around 6:00pm and headed right out to find something to eat and then walk around the area to get our bearings as we sketched out our week's plans. I can't tell you how breathtaking it was to turn a corner and come upon the Blue Mosque, illuminated like this.

Hagia Sofia

And to turn around on the same spot to see the Hagia Sofia.  Enchanting doesn't start to describe it.

 
The week didn't exactly unfold as we had planned.  It was pretty brisk our first few days there and by mid-week, the Middle East was in the throes of an unusually harsh cold front/storm.  For three days, the temperature never got above the mid-20s ~ just about where it was in Ohio and Riga that week!  So much for warmer climes.  We were undaunted.  Each day after a hearty, delicious breakfast at the hotel, we headed out for 12 hours or more.  First stop, the Hagia Sofia.

We spent the better part of 2 hours touring the interior of this gorgeous building. Built in 435 as an Eastern Orthodox church, it was converted to a mosque in 1453 and secularized as a museum in 1935. The scale is hard to capture in photos. Many areas are currently being restored.

After the initial awe over its massive dimensions, I found the smaller details so captivating.

Mosaics that literally shimmered. Familiar with some of these from art history classes, I was quite surprised at the size of the actual mosaic pieces ~ about 1/4" square!! Stunning.

Up under the arches, you can see remnants of mosaic patterning. Areas where it had disintegrated had at some point been painted in the same designs. Pattern heaven!! I found myself trying to imagine how beautiful this place must have been in its time.

As we left, I found this most touching ~ the stone entryway, worn down in at least a 3" dip from centuries of visitors.  

When we finally tore ourselves away, we headed across the street to grab some lunch at a restaurant that advertised good views. Next stop, right across the street ~ the Basilica Cistern.

As we were waiting in a short line, I paused for a moment to get a shot of this charming Ottoman style structure, a tourist police station, that was right across the street.  Its color, the peeling paint, the Turkish flag flying...it's not a great shot, but now it is one of my most memorable. About 50 hours later, a Russian woman in a niqab walked up to the kiosk and after being refused entry, activated a suicide bomb, killing herself and a policeman.  Initially, it was a shock to hear, but not so surprising.  Within 24 hours, the Paris attack would take over the news.  What a world. 

The Basilica Cistern is actually one of a number of water retention structures that were built beneath the city in the 6th century to provide water filtration for the Great Palace of Constantinople.  Walkways have been built between some columns so visitors can tour the massive subterranean structure. Impressive, but a little creepy. Let's brighten this post up a bit!!

How about some Turkish delight?  Yum...

Too many varieties of baklava to count ~ or eat!!

Iznik tiles? Overload at the Topkapi Palace and the Sultan's Harem...but that deserves a post of its own.

As do the bazaars ~ rugs, textiles, lanterns, spices... 

Visual overload.

Not to mention the random city scenes and the warm, friendly people we met. 

Lots more to share.

***Not sure why the spacing is so wacky if you're reading this on Bloglovin'.