If you find yourself in Xi'an...

Xi'an City Wall main gate

Don't think that the Terracotta Warriors are the only reason to visit Xi'an. There is so much more!  I've already mentioned that on our second day there, we visited the Shaanxi History Museum, which was chock full of fascinating historical artifacts from the area.  In contrast to our previous soggy day, the weather was sunny and comfortable and we got an early start, the better to see as much as possible before our departure on Monday.

After grabbing a quick bite, we headed to the main gate of the magnificent Xi'an City Wall, an ancient defensive fortification built around the perimeter of the city in the 1300s.  When I was getting ready for the day, my son suggested wearing something that would be suitable for bicycling.  Really?! 

I hadn't ridden a bike since the kids were in grade school but this sounded like too much fun!  Guess what?  It's true what they say...you never forget! 

We all saddled up and spent the next hour and a half peddling the whole 9 mile loop, stopping to take photos of the fantastic views and indulging in an occasional cold drink.

View of the Xi'an Bell Tower from the wall

Whee!  I'm ten again!

We had so much fun that we actually ran over our rental time but by mid-afternoon, we turned in our bikes and descended the wall to explore an adjacent artists' neighborhood.  It was our second but last day in Xi'an and we still had quite a list!

Street of galleries

After a quick visit to the interesting Xi'an Beilin Museum, we wandered among the many booths and shops nearby, all featuring artists' work or supplies.

Framed papercuts

Calligraphy brush stand

Handcraft booth

I ventured past the handcraft booth just a few yards into this local neighborhood which I think is a good illustration of how sharp the contrasts are in China.  One minute you're in a refined, high-end area, the next block it's quite different.

The local restaurant, menu posted by the entry


Restaurant cook, facing street, working over coal-fired stove

As I was snapping this shot, I heard my DIL exclaim, *whoops!* and glanced up to catch a naked guy strolling by, to little local notice.  Despite our momentary loss of appetite, we were getting hungry and headed off through the neighborhoods to have an early dinner at one of my favorite restaurants in the world.

Xi'an version of the Amish clothesline shot

When we ate at First Noodle Under the Sun (love the name!) the night we arrived, we knew we'd have to come back one more time before we left.  It was that good!  Recommended by Lonely Planet, we were initially surprised at how 'basic' it was.  Kind of like a cafeteria.

But believe me, what they lack in ambiance, they make up in taste!  The menu is thick, the selection varied and...a help for foreign travelers...photos are provided, with English subtitles. 

Hungry?

Something for everyone! 

The selections are served family style, so we chose some repeat dishes from Friday night, added in a few new ones and sat back with some Tsingtao beer, waiting for our feast.  None, may I add, from the options above.

Here's the biáng biáng miàn ~ 4 meter noodle ~ which is the house specialty.  Yum!  As we worked on this course and the deliciously seasoned sliced cukes, others were delivered, one after another.

Kung Pao Chicken

The Kung Pao Chicken was out of this world, as long as you carefully pushed the little Sichuan peppercorns to the side.  If you missed one, it felt like a real sparkler going off in your mouth, followed by total but temporary numbness.  Once I mastered peppercorn avoidance, it was one of my favorite dishes!

Sesame-filled, fried pumpkin cakes

Despite bursting at the seams, we couldn't resist ordering the most delicious pumpkin cakes for dessert.  This is only what's left of the order, after finally saying *uncle*. 

The price for our feast?  $22.00.  For everything!

You might think that we were done in by our busy day, but no!  We had one more thing on our list.  After a quick stop at our hotel to freshen up, we hailed a (wish I could say 'cab') tuktuk for yet another hair-raising ride.  Off to the Muslim Quarter, a vibrant section of the city surrounding the Great Mosque, which we did not see, due to time constraints.

It was mobbed when we arrived, several seemingly non-ending streets filled with souvenir shops, dried fruit & nut markets and food booths.  The smells of so many exotic foods and the throbbing of middle eastern music wafting through the air made this such a memorable end to our visit.  It was loud, raucous, colorful and fascinating.

We finally, reluctantly, called it a day.

Am I excited that I've just taken my final tuktuk ride and lived to tell about it?  Or am I happy to have just had the most fun and memorable day ever? 

You decide!

Comments

[KT]

Holy Moly! You are a regular Anthony Bourdain! Donkey meat?! Your travel posts are the best. The eggs on a skewer are crazy.

xo

[Kathy]

When I read yesterday's post, I started wondering whether they still hang laundry out on poles and judging from your photo I guess the answer is yes. Of all the wonderful things I saw when I visited in 1984, I still remember the laundry hung on poles sticking out from practically every window. And today's post reminds me of the food. I'd love to go back someday. I'm glad you had a great trip!

[Maureen from Ventura]

Wow! This post was absolutely amazing!!

[cosmoHallitan]

HA! I love that you took photos of all those crazy things on the menu! I actually wish we'd tried the "aunt Naked oats flour volume." I just read a post by another China blogger who listed those wheat flour noodles as a regional delicacy. They are supposedly delicious dipped in the fiery sauce. Next time! (PS - this was one of my favorite days too!) :-)

[Thimbleanna]

Wow -- I'm just loving these posts Jan. What a fabulous day! I love the picture of YOU at the end of the day. And I'm voting for option 2 for your smile!

[Phyllis White]

What a wonderful blogpost, I enjoyed it to the full, great story, woooooonderful pictures! What a great trip, I love it that you try (to do and eat) so many different things, use local transport etc. I am looking forward to more posts of your trip. Enjoy!

[Ruth]

I must show my mother this post. My parents were in one of the first groups to go to China after it re-opened in the 80s, and I've heard so many stories ... I am loving reading yours.

[Tonya Ricucci]

Wow. thank you in particular for those menu shots. what an absolute hoot. there is something to be said for translating the meaning not literally. I love Kung Po Chicken and that looks mahvelous. mmmm.

[Mary]

Simply incredible. Now I really MUST plan to make the trip.

[Rachaeldaisy]

Wow!! What a post!! I'm going to make a cup of tea and look at all these wonderful photos again. Thank you so much for sharing them and the fun tales of your adventures. Your trip looks amazing!

[Masami Kondo from Japan]

Although I was not able to understand a little English, I was very interesting.

[Jessica]

China!!! Miss it terribly. Looks like you had a great time! Nice photos! Ah, the food. Those night markets! Swoon. Did you happen to pick up any dried kiwi? My friend and I picked up a couple packs ... and then ate most of them during our 22-hour train ride back to Beijing ... and I couldn't look at another for 3 months, but they're pretty good.

[Deanna]

What wonderful pictures. So glad you all had a great time. Your tour guide is amazing. I can't wait to go back.

[mathea]

Thank you for taking us along on your trip - it seems you have had a wonderful time!
I love those English translations on the menu - it rivals anything you find on engrish.com ;-)

[Lisa in Toronto]

I can recommend the "aunt Naked oats flour volume" which may be called shotgun shell noodles if I recall correctly? One dips them in different sauces.
Unfortunately mosques in China are not open to non-Muslims, but the gardens were pretty if you have another chance in future.
Yum yum Xi'an noodles!

[Redsoxgal]

These,too,are fantastic...what a trip!! I have never seen any photos like these. It must be quite a place to see,not like anything else. The shopping is everywhere it looks like,did you or could you shop at all? If so,did you find much fabric,yarn? Looking forward to more!

[Jeannette]

I Love your photos and stories of China, how awesome!! I would love to visit just by your photos!! I would think it would be hard not knowing the language though. Can't wait for more!!

[Sharon]

Looks like an amazing adventure. I could drink the beer, but I'm not so sure about that food! Loved the eggs on a skewer, that's crazy!

[Charlotte]

We visited China 3 years ago and found it fascinating. Thanks for the walk down memory lane.

Charlotte

[Linda in NC]

Thanks for sharing your fascinating trip. My son loved his visit to Xi'an; after seeing your photos I better understand why.

[Wendy]

This makes me want to start planning a return trip for the girls. I also think there's a job to be had there writing English subtitles that actually make sense. Cracked up at your description of traffic and crossing roads. In an email home on our second trip I told family it was like the goal of all drivers in China is to never use the brake until they arrive at their destination.