In early January when we were fine-tuning my trip plans, I emailed a Tokyo friend to ask if she could recommend any little neighborhoods or shops somewhat off the beaten track that might be of interest to Molly and me during our four days in the city. She emailed right back with more questions and a brief description of a tenugui shop in Ningyo-cho that she thought we might enjoy. Since that was exactly the kind of suggestion I was hoping for, I immediately Googled *tenugui* and *Ningyo-cho* and emailed to thank her for the great idea.
Armed with a map and a printout from my Googling, we set out one morning for Ningyo-cho, in search of Takatora. It was easy to find and upon ringing the bell to gain entry, we were greeted by its artisan-owner, Mr. Takahashi. To call him a *character* would be an understatement. From our entry, he kept up an animated dialogue with poor Molly (almost a monologue, as she struggled to keep up with his detailed explanations) as he showed us all of his work, explaining in detail the many plays-on-words incorporated into many of his designs.
The tenugui at Takatora were all of Mr. Takahashi's design, and mostly quite bold. The tiny shop made picture taking near impossible, and I wondered at Jennifer's recommendation that her visiting friends had had a lot of fun there, despite our total enjoyment of the proprietor. Finally, we each chose one to bring home and while they were being wrapped up, I had Molly ask him if there were other artisan shops in the neighborhood. Since Ningyo-cho means *dolltown*, my hopes were high but dashed on that count. He did mention another tenugui shop in the area, however, and drew out an elaborate map for us to follow.
It couldn't have been a more beautiful day! We stopped at a street stand on our way and bought some delicious, dried persimmons. (We got quite a few extra thrown into the bag because the owner was *honored* that I wanted to take pictures of his stand.)
Several more blocks and a little back-tracking later, we arrived at Chidori-ya, clearly the shop that Jennifer had been referring to. How lucky that we stumbled on to it despite my jumping the gun and thinking I had found her recommendation on Google!
Oh. my.
So what's a tenugui? I wrote about them in a past post, but I'll quote a little informational flyer ("what's TENUGUI?") that the shop put into my bag.
TENUGUI is a very familiar and usefull tool for the Japanese since the EDO period (1630~) as a thin Japanese towel made of cotton. We could just say "TENUGUI is a Japanese traditional towel", but not only was it used as a wiping tool such as a towel or a handkerchief, it was also used as a dishcloth, headband, souvenir and a tapestry for decorating your rooms!
Its water absorptivity is excellent! also drys very fast so it's hygenic too (the edges of the cloth wasn't done any special care on purpose and it makes TENUGUI drys much faster.) It's typically about 35*90cm in size so you can fold it thinly and not be bulkey at all.
Decisions, decisions....
In addition as for the TENUGUI, the clothe itself gradually softens by embezzing it so please enjoy that changing.
Ring them up!
There is a charm of a Japanese towel to numerous of the handle. There are a meaning and a play to each handle, and the design that was prevalent from what was used as a handle of the kimono which a Kabuki actor wore other than the handle which made nature and a plant, an animal a motif in the Edo era stays in the present age and feels a change of Japanese culture to open in 35*90cm and limited cloth, and will not it be charm that I can take it in hand?
Year of the Ox (from Takatora)
During my travels, I picked up tenugui in Yokkaichi and Kobe as well as Tokyo. You can find them everywhere, though the tourist types are often of a looser weave. I was particularly on the hunt for some off-beat small prints in a tight-ish weave, like those above, to use in quilts.
Several that I purchased won't be cut up for piecing. I'll finish the ends and hang them for display or use them as table runners. These are three of my favorites.
And look...I was able to photograph them on my new design wall! I hadn't yet gotten my sewing room together when the bad weather hit in the fall so we took advantage of Sunday's sunny, 60 degree weather to head to Home Depot for the insulation board and haul it home on the car roof. I finished covering it yesterday. You know what this means...? Sewing can't be far behind!
*If you are planning a visit to Tokyo, I'd highly recommend visiting each of these shops!
OMG! I HAVE one of those! Many years ago--late 50s--a friend of my mother's went to Japan and brought me back a number of items, most of which I still have. It's around here somewhere...(opening and shutting drawers, throwing things on the floor...)
Posted by: KathieB | February 11, 2009 at 07:51 PM
I want one or two or three or more of those!!! How cool!
Posted by: Cindra | February 11, 2009 at 10:15 PM
I got a couple of those from a fellow patchwork friend last year after her trip to Japan and I too emailed your friend at movinghands.wordpress.com :) She told about tenegui but I love seeing all your photos of so many more!! I love all my souvenir teatowels I have gotten on my travels, maybe I should add one of these for my dishwashing instead of cutting into small pieces for my quilts!!
Posted by: Cathi in Ireland | February 12, 2009 at 02:28 AM
Jan, your tenugui adventures sound like a lot of fun. Okadaya in Shinjuku also sells tenugui by the meter, on rolls, which is neat to see. (They also have mini cuts for $1 or $2 each--great for patchwork). I got that pig tenugui there last time. :) Oh, and this is crazy, but the shop I took my friends to was yet ANOTHER tenugui shop near the station. Very old-style, with a sliding door on the front that doesn't even look like a shop. On the first floor, they were slicing off tenugui from a roll of custom printed fabric, and upstairs there were shelves and shelves of tenugui cloths, with a room next to it where they served us tea and fruit.
Posted by: Jennifer | February 12, 2009 at 02:57 AM
Those little towels are so beautiful. Are they available here in the states?
Posted by: Carole | February 12, 2009 at 06:23 AM
ooh, wonderful. I love the ink pens, bicycles... that knitting fabric was a great choice for you. very fun.
Posted by: Lazy Gal Tonya R | February 12, 2009 at 07:54 AM
Wow, so interesting and fun! I'd have been overwhelmed with choosing what to bring home.
Posted by: Leslie | February 12, 2009 at 08:38 AM
Oh no, there's ANOTHER tenugui shop in Ningyocho? Put it on the list for next time!
Posted by: molly | February 12, 2009 at 08:39 AM
Oh my, such beauty!
Posted by: diane | February 12, 2009 at 10:02 AM
I think I would have passed out in Chidoriya.
Posted by: Mariko | February 12, 2009 at 11:05 AM
Beautiful and informative post--and such a fun outing! I particularly love the socks and knitting needles cloth...
Posted by: katie | February 13, 2009 at 11:54 AM
Jan, Your trip seemed magical and wonderful! Is there any place to find tungui here in the states?
I was also wondering about dolls. There is a company ,"Volks" where you can go and create your own doll. Almost like a salon. You choose the body, eyes, hair, clothing etc.
I always enjoy reading your posts....and as my DH & I are in the process of trying to find a new place to live...it gives me hope that you have come through the transition and seem to have found the other sidse.....some days I feel I'll lose my mind! Denise
Posted by: Denise | February 13, 2009 at 09:57 PM
I love tenugui and I love Ningyocho! Actually I was told that it got its name because it was a redlight district of sorts back in the day, and the made up women used to sit in the windows to be chosen, like dolls. That made me like the name a bit less...but I love the area regardless!
Posted by: Rachele | February 14, 2009 at 09:24 AM
Hi
I’d like to know where exactly those two shops are. I’m going to Japan this summer and I wish to go there is it possible for you to give me both of these addresses?
Posted by: Yuki | March 07, 2009 at 11:13 AM